In 1772, near fair Verona, the Boscaini family did dwell...
However, this isn't a tale of star-cross'd lovers, nor that of Valentine and Proteus; this is a story about wine. And it begins with the inseparable union of a surname, ‘Boscaini’, and a place name, ‘Vaio dei Masi’, whose vineyard property has been developed by the work of the Boscaini family. A family that today, has been dedicated to cultivating vines, transforming grapes into wine, and bringing it to market for over 250 years.
One practice that is important to their wine production is the Appassimento Technique which translates to “fading” or “withering” in Italian, and refers to a winemaking process where dried grapes, instead of fresh grapes, are fermented. In the Veneto region, where this technique dates back to Ancient Roman times, grape drying is essential for producing Amarone, and you can read more about the way that Masi performs this technique, on their website.
Over their two and a half centuries in existence, the Masi brand and family portfolio has expanded to eight locations, including historic wine estates in Valpolicella Classica, in the heart of Prosecco in Valdobbiadene, and in Mendoza in Argentina. Locations also include individual wine bars and restaurants on Lake Garda; in the Belluno Dolomites - an exclusive venue in Cortina d'Ampezzo; and in Munich - at Campari House in the city-centre's Maximilianstrasse. Earning Sandro Boscaini the moniker “Mr. Amarone” and a Wine Enthusiast Lifetime Achievement Award last year. If you'd like to hear him tell you a little more about the Vaio dei Masi (in Italian) you can also do that, right here.
As with many fine wines from around the world, you can find a number of their vintages, here, at The Firehouse. While we've not been serving wine here for 250 years - just 65 as of this year - the building was erected in 1895 and was California's first fully-staffed firehouse. In fact, while it is not open to the public, the area behind those three windows, above the front door, was where the on-duty firemen slept.
The brass pole that they slid down when they heard the fire alarm ring out, is still here, directly across the front walkway from our main bar. While The Firehouse is best known for an award-winning wine list and classic American fare such as steaks, chops, and daily line-caught fish specials, Masi is perhaps best known for their Amarone. Their flagship Costasera Amarone, is majestic, complex and exuberant, something of a gentle giant. Even considered a benchmark for the Amarone category, which, together with Barolo and Brunello, make up the aristocracy of the Italian wine world.
Massi's next heavy hitter is their Costasera Riserva Amarone the fruit of which is given a longer period for further ripening on the bamboo racks they use for the Appassimento Technique, and an ageing period for the wine of at least three years in wooden casks. The use of indigenous grapes for the Valpolicella Classica area - Corvina, Rondinella and Molinara - are enriched by the addition of the unique Oseleta, which we will talk more about in a moment.
The last product we're coving in this blog post is their Brolo Campofiorin. Rich in aromas and structure, Masi's Brolo is also dried with the Appassimento method, and stylistically positioned between the simple approachability of Valpolicella and the complexity of Amarone. Rich, round, and velvety. Given extra complexity with the addition to the blend of the special Oseleta grape, and aged in small oak casks.
So, back to Oseleta. That's another neat thing about this Italian wine brand; they rediscovered a nearly extinct Italian grape varietal and they still use it. Oseleta is an extremely rare red wine grape variety that is only grown in northeastern Italy's Veneto region. It produces small bunches of small, tightly packed berries and because of their low yield, the variety was close to extinction until it was saved from sliding into oblivion by the Masi winery.
By the early 21st Century, there were fewer than 50 acres of Oseleta vines left, located just inland from the eastern shores of Lake Garda. More productive varieties are often favored over low yielders, particularly in times of economic pressure. From what grape historians can tell, it appears Oseleta's decline in popularity coincided with the devastation inflicted on the region by the phylloxera mite in the late 19th century, and it became even less popular in the aftermath of the Second World War. Oseleta's coverage dwindled to near extinction until it was rediscovered by Masi in the 1980s.
In the variety's favor are its strong color and good levels of tannins. Vigorous and relatively disease-resistant, it is late-budding (providing some insurance against spring frosts) but also a late-ripener. Although complete DNA profiling of Oseleta vines has yet to be carried out, it is known that the variety is related to Corvina Veronese and Rondinella, two key grapes used in the wines of Valpolicella.
With small grapes and large pips, plus only a moderate yield in the vineyard, Oseleta produces a good 30% less juice than other varieties during pressing. The great worth of Oseleta is the thick, dark skins, which make the wine rich in color and full of berry fruit aromas, while the pips provide attractive tannins on the palate once fully ripe.
Stop in today for a little sip of Italian history, right here in Sacramento!